Finally testing out the Heston from Waitrose Coriander and Rose salt. Which you can’t buy any more.
How about a review of a product that you can’t buy any more? Yep, it’s the Moroccan-inspired Coriander & Rose salt from Waitrose. We were too lazy to review this when it first came out.
Some of Heston’s Waitrose products have lasted: burgers, bangers, bacon and those magnificent stocks. Meanwhile others have been quietly retired. We’re thinking the attention-grabbing curios that make for a good press-release: your Mustard Ice Cream and your Vanilla Mayonnaise. We do miss those pies though.
Among that retired list is a quartet of flavoured salts, intended as quirky things to perk up regular meals. You could’ve chosen from Oak-Smoked, Four-Spice and Vanilla varieties, along with today’s trial flavour: Rose & Coriander. I grabbed a jar of this, the most unusual one, on one of my bi-annual Heston-sweeps of Altrincham Waitrose and it’s been sat in the cupboard so long that they’ve now stopped making it.
Price: £2.49 for 45g
Typically classy Heston-branded presentation in a tiny Kilner jar. Sticker-free too, the Heston branding comes on a glossy label tied on to the lid, so you can use it for posh picnics once its empty.
Open it up and there’s thick, fat grains of high-grade salt dusted in ground coriander and ginger, mixed in with blushing pink dried rose petals and grains of loose-leaf green tea.
This spice mix, as the label says, is inspired by the medina of Marrakech The floral combination of rose, coriander and ginger does evoke some of the more delicate blends of Ras el Hanout you’ll find there though.
If you can get behind the Times Paywall there’s a fun column from Heston where he describes a trip to Marrakech with AA Gill where they end up eating sheep’s nipples. Probably at a stall like this one we passed in the Djemaa el-Fna, where you can see a guy in a magnificent Jedi-like robe ordering a plate of skull-meat.
One of the things that swayed us into buying this flavour of salt was as a reminder of our own trip there, where we pestered our guide into helping us do that “Jamie Does…” thing of filling a jar at the market with meat and veg then slow cooking it in embers of a hammam.
Our concoction was seasoned with Ras-el-Hanout. I’d prefer not to discuss the type of meat we were forced to eat, however.
I’ve been heading to the gym a lot lately, and doing a few experiments with the sous vide rig too. This salt seemed like a great way to liven up some otherwise dull lean protein (On this occasion a slab of cod – sorry, Hugh!).
The result: plain-flavoured cod with gritty twigs on top.
The salt is a nice idea, and paired with roasted meats and put on before cooking it could give some fantastic flavour to a dish. (ideally lamb, though you’d never find me contaminating my kitchen with anything so vile).
If used as a rub, maybe prior to roasting, this salt would be great for infusing flavours into some meat, but as a finishing touch the texture is far too coarse. You just end up with a scattering of dry leaves on the surface of your food.
If you really wanted the smoked or vanilla salts you can still buy them from Halen Mon (who count The Fat Duck amongst their customers). You can’t buy this particular blend anymore, but that’s no great loss.